Long Island, not the New York one

Whoa, what happened there!?! We we’re nicely blogging along once a week and then, BAM, 5 weeks passed! Many apologies for the long absence, we’ve got our dog ate our homework excuse all ready though… We’ve had no internet! oye, I forgot a world could exist without internet for so long. We’ve been in very remote part of the Bahamas, Cuba (where they had internet but very limited) and have now just arrived in Panama after a long passage so there are plenty of stories backlogged to tell you all. We’ll try to keep the posts coming fast and furious now that we’re back connected to the world, for now enjoy Alyssa’s rendition of our Long Island escapades and we’ll have you all caught up on our adventures in no time, Thanks for your patience!!

Last we left off we had just stumbled upon some young cruisers at Rum Cay when Adam had pulled up to the wrong boat at night…

We had been left pining for Long Island since we had sailed out of Joe’s Sound and headed to meet up with Mike in San Salvador. So as we sat on the deck looking at the charts and checking the weather we saw no better option than setting our sails to take us back and see everything the island had to offer! That being said our weather window was a day away so we had one more night on Rum Cay and some neighbors we were eager to see in the light of day!

Bright and early the following morning (which is 630-7am in cruisers time) I went for a morning paddleboard and beach stroll. On my way back to the boat I found adam yet again on the wrong boat! He had headed over to apologize for the late night dingy intrusion and to meet our neighbors in person. I paddled over and was pleasantly surprised not only were they young they were headed to Long Island as well! The boys became fast friends and headed out bluewater spearfishing in the afternoon. Coming back empty handed unfortunately just as the sun once again began its descent below the horizon. Over some sundowners Adam told me that Justin and sherry (our new friends) were buddy boating with two other boats and asked us to join them on the cruise over to Long Island! We made friends!!!! By this point in our travels Adam and I have been pretty much each others sole entertainment… we were in need of some new conversation and a little social interaction!

FYI-Buddy boating is just traveling together really- your both headed the same direction so you share anchorage info, weather reports, fishing victory stories etc.

As soon as the sun began to give off its early grey/blue glow around 530am we were off with our buddies, all bound for Long Island! It was a beautiful day on the water and our sail was uneventful aside from the fact that Heritage once again was being the equivalent of lapped in the water. The other three boats took off later than us and all three beat us to the harbor…. our big fat girl is slow but steady 🙂

Jasaru and Aspiration lapping us!

Calabash Cay is the picture in your head of Bahamas, white sand beaches so soft you could sit burying your feet in the sand for hours and still be left in amazement at how fine it is. The bay is shallow (around 7-10ft) that gradually makes it way up to the shore where the clarity is all the same 50ft out. There are huge stingrays gliding along the surface, nurse sharks napping in the boat’s shadow, beautiful shells and sand dollars littering the sea floor. It’s beautiful to say the least.

With talk of good lobster grounds it was time to go for a dive. We all jumped into our dingys and headed out to explore the reefs together. All of our hands were full of lobsters and fish by the afternoon and we were invited to an “aparatife” – French for potluck! One of our buddy boats was a French couple on the most adorable boat you have ever seen, an orange hull pilot house! (Pilot house meaning the steering is inside the boat unlike our steering which is outside in the cockpit).

Adam caught a Slipper Lobster! Very hard to spot and very ugly but so so tasty! It tastes like normal lobster but slightly sweeter.

Olivier (pronounced oliv-e-a) and Isabelle hosted us on their beautiful boat and we got to know our new friends. A beautiful meal, many laughs and compliments on Heritages unique red sails and the night was called to an end at cruisers midnight- 9pm 🙂 a late one for us all!

The following day we went big time! We rented a car!!! We rented a car for $90/day (big dent for our weekly, more like monthly our cruising budget but enviably worth it) and decided to see tip-to-tip of this big island. We started on the north end (where we were anchored) and cruised down island, stopping at interesting little island stores along the way and getting glimpses of both sides of the island.

“The best grocery on island” (which it was the best throughout all the Bahamas actually ), the best Conch salad on island (which it was) and on down to Deans Blue Hole!!

Long Island is extremely long by Bahamas standards. Its 80miles tip to tip. Making the name suit it well!

Deans Blue Hole has been on our bucket list long before this sailing venture began! Both us coveting the chance to get out to this out-Island and experience the worlds deepest salt water Blue Hole we weren’t sure if the day would ever come! It was well worth the car rental, the two hour drive and the 12 wrong turns it took to get there. After the direction of “turn left at the pink house” (they are all pink….) we headed down a hilly white gravel road until it turned into what looked like bushes. With just enough hope we kept driving through and a sign came up on the left- Deans Blue Hole!! Essentially running out of the car both of us were like little kids scrambling to throw on sunscreen and grab our snorkels as our feet were propelling us to the beach. It was breathtaking- that same white sand beach had managed to rim this beautiful ocean mystery making it even more of a sight.

The white sand fades to clear teal water as it fades to darker aqua, then sapphire and eventually to this dark dark navy abyss. The Hole drops down to 663ft making it the deepest Blue Hole in the world. It is a freediving Mecca and sadly also a freediving grave- it’s dangerous depths tempting even the most experienced and talented divers into depths that are sometimes too far.

Once ours jaws stopped dropping I stupidly remind Adam that you can cliff jump from one point down into the hole, he’s off up the edge of the cliff before I can finish the sentence. I hate cliff jumping. I always end up doing it, but I hate every second… here is proof.

That form is really something and the battle cry of “I’m alive” is nothing I’m proud of for the record.

Our afternoon is spent exploring the hole and working on Adams freediving skills with me holding my breath in anticipation of his arrival on the surface. Our time running short we head back to our car and make our way back home.

With beautiful weather the next few days we explore more of Long Island and get a chance to go on a dingy adventure to where Columbus landed his Santa Maria over six hundred years ago. The caves surrounding the point were something out of pirates of the Caribbean, with blow holes and deep dark hidden rooms, there is no doubt these caves were once the home of pirate treasures. We head to the beach where Columbus would’ve landed his small row boats and head to shore to check out the monument at the top of the hill.


As I am getting out of the dingy I notice a man on shore… this is no ordinary man though- he is completely naked… As I get closer he informs me the walk is quite easy up the hill and there’s a nice monument… I smile politely keep my eyes up ahead and march on slightly envious of this mans confidence! Sure enough the walk is easy, the monument beautiful and the naked man gone by the time I make it back down to the beach. Adam spotting a reef from the hilltop we head out to look for dinner both laughing at our friend and his major…confidence.

Luck is on our side and the reef is full of dinner options! We head home exhausted but with a feast of lobster and grouper! Eager for a nice warm shower, I jump on the chance as Adam is cleaning the fish. From the bathroom I hear the most beautiful English accent complimenting our “little ship”! As I listen to Adam talk to this English woman of mystery I can immediately tell she’s pretty! I head outside a little while later to check her out and remind Adam that I’m alive and on the boat. As I walk upstairs I’m greeted by this beautiful woman dressed in all yellow- from her straw hat down to her sarong she appears to be glowing! I can’t be mad at him. She’s a vision! As I soon learn, Jane just pulled in on the next boat over and had to come over and admire our “little ship”! She is probably early fifties, has blonde wavy hair, more energy than a two year old and as fit as a Pilates instructor. As she rambles on, Adam and I can’t help but smile- she’s an adventure in and of herself! As she heads home adam and I are both smitten! We can’t help but wonder what her husband “Jim” must be like. Adam finishes cutting the fish and decides we have more than enough for us- we should share it with our new crush Jane! 🙂 (such a flirt).

After we’ve cleaned up we head over to Janes’ boat Romabout to share our fish and guess who greets us on deck… Jim… aka naked man from the beach!

Our gift quickly earns us a dinner invite and by the next night we’re all fast friends.

The Georgetown regatta was coming up and having been out island for a while, we’d figured it’d be a good place to go to stock up on fuel, groceries and a dose of civilization. All the boats we were with had the same thing in mind so it was settled we’d head out the next day.

Check out next blog post as we head to the Exumas with all of our buddies! Adams parents pay a visit and we race in the Georgetown Regatta!
S/v Jasaru
S/v Aspiration
S/v Mars
S/v Romabout

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